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Ceramics in Thailand
A Tourist Guide by Stephen Daly
In July 1996 I travelled in Thailand for a few weeks. Finding information on Thai ceramics and areas to visit, prior to departure, was not very successful. Whilst there, however, I learned of a rich and diverse ceramic history and tradition, much of which has only been fully revealed and appreciated since the mid 1980's.
Here is the information that would have been useful before I left Australia. Most of the sites can easily be included as a stopover on the trip between Bangkok and Chiang Mai, are close to provincial towns of interest for other reasons, have good transport and a range of hotels. Hopefully, this knowledge will assist prospective travellers to Thailand with an interest in ceramics.
Bangkok
Bangkok was a bit of a blur! After the third day I was beginning to get a feel for it. Unfortunately, by then it was time to move on. The city has a lot to offer if you can take the time to settle in. But get a hotel within easy walk of a pier where you can catch express boats along the Chao Phraya River. View life on the river and begin to appreciate the predominance of water and the extensive use of waterways in this environment. It's also a great way to avoid the hustle, heat , traffic and get around using a minimum of energy.
Looking for ceramics was not a high priority at the time. However to get an idea of what is currently made you might try Celadon House, 18/7 Soi 21(Soi Asoke), Sukhumvit Rd and Waraporn Thai Pottery 37/1 Sukhaphiban 2 Rd, Bang Kapi. The National Museum and Jim Thompson Thai House Museum have antique ceramics on display. The Siam Society (131 Soi Asoke, Sukhumvit Rd.) has published articles on ceramics and a reference library.
Ayuthaya Province
Ayuthaya, old Thai capital, situated at the confluence of three rivers, only two hours north of Bangkok by train, was looking very appealing as a respite from the pace of Bangkok.. The night market was terrific, flooded with light and exotic sounds, and the wonderful aroma of the many local delicacies. Even our children were coaxed by the atmosphere into tasting the local fare.
Recently declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site, Ayuthaya has many temples and ruins to see, either by road or long tailed boat. Visit the Ayuthaya Historical Study Centre, Chan Kasem Palace and Chao Sam Phraya National Museum for a look at its history and culture. Generally the National Museum in each town is a good place to start. They have books by the Fine Arts Department available on different aspects of the culture. Unfortunately most of information is in Thai, but the photographs are good.
Though not a ceramic production area, Ayuthaya was the centre of Thai culture and international commerce from about 1350 to 1767 and at its most prosperous had a population of over one million. The development of ceramics in Thailand was linked with that of Ayuthaya as a growing market for domestic and architectural wares and an export trade centre with water access to the Gulf of Thailand.
Ceramic production sites have been found at Singaburi and Suphanburi to the north and north-west . However more significant sites further north, at Sukothai, have been more thoroughly investigated.
The bus trip to Sukothai took about six hours and we arrived just after dark, as shops were being converted into sleeping areas and the eating places were beginning to fill. Finding a hotel at the end of a days travel, especially after dark, was not a joyful prospect. Fortunately, the Riverview Hotel, opposite the bus stop and food stalls, was lit like a Christmas tree.
Sukothai Province
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